Bottled in December 2016

I brought back a stowaway from Argentina: el polizón is a Malbec, and an exceptional wine on several counts. Its terroir is the unusual soil of Altamira in the Uco Valley, south of Mendoza, at 1100 metres above sea level. This is a spectacular place. The rocks in the ground are coated with a fine layer of lime, although there is no limestone to be found for miles around. What puzzles geologists makes for excellent viticulture. For this wine, the grapes are harvested following the veins in the rock – a laborious process, since the veins criss-cross the neat rows of vines. Each vein is harvested and fermented separately. el polizón is vinified and aged in specially designed concrete tanks. No hint of barrique interferes with the potency of the Malbec grape.

el polizón is my answer to the question of what characterises a good Malbec. It tastes of sun-warmed rock and has just as many layers. It smells of dark, ripe summer berries and woodlands warming in the midday sun. Each sip keeps these soothing images alive.